ODOP– MADHAVARAM SAREES
INTRODUCTION:
Madhavaram Handloom sarees boast a storied heritage that spans centuries. It traces back to the humble beginnings of crafting “Rumals,” hand-woven handkerchiefs made from the purest cotton. This tradition laid the foundation for providing livelihoods to countless hand weavers in the region.
By the 1930s, the weavers of Madhavaram expanded their craft, embarking on the creation of exquisite pure cotton zari sarees adorned with lavish silver and gold zari borders. Despite the dominance of silk sarees in the market today, Madhavarm cotton saree creations have carved out their niche. The sarees find their way to major retail outlets across Andhra Pradesh, Telangana, Tamil Nadu, and Karnataka, courtesy of the dedicated efforts of weavers and traders.
Characterized by their lightweight and durability, Madhavaram cotton sarees are woven from double-ply fine 100-count cotton. The sarees are applauded for their intricate brocades and Jacquard Zari Border Petu designs, often chosen as bridal wear, while the Geometric Lines Zari Kaddi Borders cater to everyday attire. These sarees, with fine cotton and natural dyeing techniques, are skin-friendly and environmentally conscious.
The color palette of Madhavaram sarees is vibrant, featuring bright green, yellow, orange, royal blue, and red. Colors make them a popular choice among those who wish to make a statement with their wardrobe. Each saree is a testament to Madhavaram’s rich weaving heritage, embodying its weavers’ dedication, skill, and passion.
In the modern era, Madhavaram sarees continue to be enchanted with their design diversification. They hand-weave traditional designs from other clusters by supporting the handloom industry, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics.
Madhavaram has become so popular in Madhuparkams and are used for both bride and bride groom during the wedding rituals. Madhavaram Sarees especially wears ladies in Vontimitta Kodandaram Swamy Brahmotsavalu and festivals of Sankranti, Ugadi and all family functions.
In Madhavaram area weavers are weave the sarees by using Salekattu Netha/ Kavva Netha technique for reducing the weight of the sarees (Beating motion is carried out by keeping two healds at same level that is closed shed, which is locally called Salekattu Netha/ Kavva Netha technique).
PRODUCT SPECIFICATIONS:
| Weave | Plain and floral motifs |
| Ends per Inch |
60 threads per inch or 90 to 120 grams per meter |
| Picks per Inch | 60 threads per inch or 90 to 120 grams per meter |
| Reed number | 84 and 88 |
| Count of yarn | 100s, 80s, 120 and 22/20 Denier |
| Type of yarn used in Warp | Cotton (Combed yarn) Silk |
| Type of yarn used in weft | Cotton (Gas mercerized) 2 or 3 ply fletcher Silk |
| Using yarn | Silk and Cotton |
| Saree width | Width 1.2 to 1.5 meters |
| Saree length |
Length 5.40 to 6.2 meters |
PROCESS OF MAKING:
The preparatory process of the handloom saree involves the process of winding, warping, dyeing, sizing, and weaving. Before any of the processes comes into place raw material is selected for the process. Cotton and silk are the most popular raw materials for handloom weaving. In Madhavaram, the major raw materials are Cotton & Silk and Zari. Cotton Yarn of the 80s. 100s and 120s count are procured from Coimbatore, Silk yarns are procured from Bangalore, and Zari from Surat. The Steps involved in producing Madhavaram Handloom sarees are as below.
YARN:
The 100% Cotton Single yarn of 80s Count (compact warp combed) is procured from Sri Varadaraja Textiles(P) Ltd, Coimbatore. Initially, the yarn comes in the package form i.e. Bales. The specifications of the packages are as follows.
1 Bale = 100 kgs of Yarn (40-42 Bundles)
1 Bundle =2.4 kgs Hank (20 Knots)
1 Hank or 1 Knot = 840 Yards
The Strength of the Product is 3000 (C.S.P)
 YARN BALE |
 YARN BUNDLE |
SCOURING:
The importance of a Scouring bath is to remove oils and dust from the yarn so that the yarn absorbency will improve to absorb dyes.
Types of Chemicals:
Chemicals and auxiliaries are the main factor for producing the color in yarn, fabric, or garments. Chemicals are the second most important materials for dyeing. Different chemicals are used during hank dyeing. The hanks are first boiled in a solution of Soap Oil + Caustic Soda (Over Night).
Scouring Recipe:
For 2 bales or 200 kgs of Yarn
Caustic Soda-2 kgs
Soap Oil-750 ml
Scouring process time: 10-12 Hours
The main Functions of chemicals
Soap-Washing Agent:
The purpose of soap is to remove the dirt and afterward is washed away, altogether with the soap, by rinsing it with water.
Oils: The purpose of oils is to add smoothness to the yarn during scouring.
Caustic Soda-Scouring Agent:
Caustic Soda increases pH and level activates the molecules of the fabric so that they can better absorb the dye. This results in brighter and longer-lasting colors.
Fixing Agent:
Sodium Nitrate is used in dyeing of hanks with developed Naphthol dyes. It is also used as a Fixative for Dye color.
Washing: The main purpose of washing After Boiling is to remove dust and oils present on the surface of the yarn.
Dyeing:
Dyes-Naphthol Dyes:
Naphthol is azoic dyes that are largely used in the handloom sector to dye cellulosic fibers. They are termed as such because their molecules hold an azo group. distinguished by their brightness, magnificence, and overall fastness features, they help to create some of the vividly colored fabrics.
Dyeing Recipe Preparation:
(Dye + Acid + Sodium Nitrate + Alum Powder + Water)
For 1 kg Color
Acid -500 grams
Sodium Nitrate -500 grams
Alum Powder-2000 grams
Water Quantity-100-120 liters
Basic Colors: Naphthol Dyes in a spectrum of shades, consisting of yellow, orange, red, maroon, brown, blue, and black.
Dyeing Process:
Approximate of 4-6 people were occupied in the process of dyeing, the dyeing was being done in pairs, with one person dipping the hanks in Naphthol and squeezing out the excess, and then giving it to the second person beside him, who dipped the hanks in the base and squeezed out the excess. The dyers approximately dye 2 lots per day. One lot consists of 40 boxes and each box consists of 5 ladis. The cost of each dyed ladi is 80-100 rupees. The cost of raw dye powder required is 1-2 Rs per ladi.
Dyeing
Bobbin Winding:
Bobbin winding is one of the important pre-loom processes that enables the laying out of yarn lengths for weaving. Each hank is wound onto a bobbin and the yarn on each bobbin is fed to the warping drum to form the warp on the loom. Bobbin winding is done by women in the weaver households. Typically, 19 to 20 bobbins are required for a five saree “warp” length of 34 meters.
Warping:
The warp is a set of threads attached to the loom lengthwise before weaving begins. Warping is the process of creating the base yarn that runs along the length of the fabric through which the “weft” yarns are filled in to make the fabric. For a 46-inch-wide fabric, over 3,200 individual yarns run along the warp of the fabric. Typically, 1,96,550 yards of yarn are aligned by wrapping them around the circular warping drum. Traditionally warp lengths and widths varied according to the draping styles of the sarees of a particular region. The series of pictures show drum warping done in a Madhavaram village.
Sizing:
The warps are stretched out on two beams and natural adhesives are applied to add strength to the yarn and lubricate it to withstand the rigors of weaving. In Madhavaram rice starch is mixed with coconut/groundnut oil and applied as “size” material. Sizing is carried out by weavers or specialists in the village. Since this activity is done on the street, it is called “street sizing”.
Weft Winding:
Weft winding is one of the processes carried out by the women in the family. Weft in a fabric is the yarn that passes across the fabric width. The weft yarn is passed through the warp yarn to create the fabric structure. Weaving is highly dependent on this pre-loom activity, which is in crisis at present. One of the main reasons is women going out of the house for other livelihood options. The series of pictures shows a woman carrying out weft winding in a Madhavaram village.
Weaving:
Majority of the people in Madhavaram use pit looms for weaving sarees. The pit loom is a loom situated on the ground/floor with a pit having two peddles set in the pit for the weaver to operate. Pit loom weaving is considered to be better weaving as the fabric woven retains the character of the fiber and fabric due to the proximity of the loom to the ground. The ground absorbs the tension and speed and makes the fabric more breathable. The series of pictures shows weavers working/operating a pit loom.
Weft Insertion:
Generally, 40 to 50 small weft bobbins are required for a full saree length of 6 .5 meters.
Punching Cards:
A card in which holes are punched in designated positions to represent design.
Types of Techniques in Weaving:
- Jacquard:
The weavers in Madhavaram village are using a higher number of Jacquards for multiple uses. They are presently using 240 hook jacquards with 3 nos on a single loom for the production of silk sarees with the latest designs with complex techniques.
The weavers are also using advanced 2 lever jacquard lifting machines for reducing strain in weaving and also to get the maximum output in production. Since most of the weavers are working for the Master Weavers at Madhavaram, they are getting the quality of dyeing and designs as per the trends prevailing in the market.
PROMOTION & INFORMATION DISSEMINATION
Promotion of activities done through District/State/other social media website tagging ODOP handle (including promotional activities in vernacular languages):
The District Administration has promoted the Madhavaram Cotton and Silk Sarees through social media (WhatsApp, YouTube, Facebook, Instagram, Twitter(X)). The Weavers were registered in WhatsApp, Instagram Apps and promoted their Products. Following are the social media links:
State ODOP Handles:
- [at]apcohandlooms:
- #andhrahandlooms:
- #odop:
Instagram:
- https://www.instagram.com/p/CxnbozDv1Pa/?img_index=1
- https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cyvydx8ouX1/
- https://www.instagram.com/p/Cg3l3J4vm7S/?img_index=1
- Madhavaram Cotton Saree – Apco Handlooms
Facebook:
Twitter:
- https://twitter.com/apcofabricsap/status/1310814326639394821
- https://twitter.com/i/flow/login?redirect_after_login=%2Fapcofabricsap
Product & Weaver Story through News Paper:
Articles on Madhavaram sarees published in different Newspapers
Exhibitions conducted/participated:
In order to achieve the remunerative prices for weavers and to create the brand value of Madhavaram Sarees, the Office of the District Handlooms and Textiles Office, YSR Kadapa District has deputed Societies/Participants to sell the Madhavaram Sarees in Expos.
| Sl. No | Event Name & Venue | Date | Society Name/Firm Name |
|
1 |
Handloom Exhibition-cum-sale at CMR Shopping Mall, Vizag conducted by NABARD | From 17.09.2023 to 26.09.2023 | Sreeramadasu Handlooms, Madhavaram, YSR District, Kadapa. |
|
2 |
State Handloom Expo at Tirupathi | From 20.12.2023 to 02.01.2024 | Sri Venkata Durga Weaver’s Co-operative Society Ltd., CDP (H) 63, K. Madhavaram, Vontimitta(M), YSR District, Kadapa. |
|
3 |
Handloom Exhibition-cum-sale at Stella Indore Auditorium, Vijayawada conducted by NABARD | From 02.01.2024 to 14.01.2024 | Sreeramadasu Handlooms, Madhavaram, YSR District, Kadapa. |
|
4 |
Handloom Exhibition-cum-sale at Majetiram, Kalyana Mandapam, Guntur conducted by NABARD | From 17.02.2024 to 24.02.2024 | Sreeramadasu Handlooms, Madhavaram,Sidhout(M), YSR District, Kadapa. |
|
5 |
Bharath Tex-2024 at New Delhi. | From 26.02.2024 to 29.02.2024 | 1. Chennakeasa SWCS Ltd.,CSR No. 14, Proddatur, YSR District, Kadapa.
2. Sreeramadasu Handlooms, Madhavaram, YSR District, Kadapa. |
|
6 |
Silk fab, Bhubaneswar | From 05.09.2023 to 18.09.2023 | APCO |
|
7 |
NHDC Expo, Lucknow | From 20.10.2023 to 05.11.2023 | APCO |
|
8 |
Silk fab, Indore | From 06.12.2023 to 19.02.2023 | APCO |
